Panerai
From naval instrument to cult watch
For decades Panerai built no watches for the trade at all, only instruments for the Italian navy. It only became a brand in 1993 — with a design language that is instantly recognisable.
The evolution of Panerai
In 1860 Giovanni Panerai opened a watchmaking workshop in Florence that soon became a supplier of precision instruments to the Regia Marina. In 1916 the house patented Radiomir, a radium-based luminous compound.
In 1936 the first Radiomir prototypes were made for the navy's combat swimmers: a 47mm case, wire lug attachments, a sandwich dial. The movements came from Rolex.
In 1949 came Luminor, a new tritium-based luminous material. During the 1950s the case gained its characteristic crown-guard bridge — still the brand's most distinctive feature today.
It was only in 1993 that the first civilian collection reached the market. In 1997 the Richemont Group took over the company, and in 2002 the manufacture in Neuchâtel was established, where in-house calibres have been produced ever since.
- Founded
- 1860 in Florence
- Founder
- Giovanni Panerai
- Manufacture
- Neuchâtel, since 2002
- Group
- Richemont, since 1997
- Signature
- Crown-guard bridge, sandwich dial
- Origin
- Instruments for the Regia Marina
What matters with Panerai
- 01
Early models from 1993 to 2005, especially special editions and pre-Vendôme pieces, form the upper segment of the secondary market.
- 02
The PAM number is the key identifier for every reference. Condition assessment and pricing in the market are based almost entirely on it.
- 03
Original straps, spare straps and the strap-change tool are part of the delivered set and noticeably affect resale value.
Panerai at Predeluxe
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